Como ser feliz por 5 dias no Deserto do Atacama

Oi queridos!

Há meses estou devendo esse post sobre o Deserto do Atacama e agora consegui organizar tudo! Espero que vocês gostem, eu tentei resumir o máximo que pude.. porque tinha muita coisa para falar! Então já sabem, quem tiver dúvidas, pode perguntar que vou amar responder, afinal, esse é um dos meus assuntos preferidos!

Vou confessar pra vocês que quando tive a ideia de ir para o deserto do atacama, imaginei que iria comprar apenas uma passagem de ônibus lá em Santiago mesmo e seria ~bem easy~ and baratinho. Juro que pensei que seria algo assim. #SQN.

Para chegar lá, é necessário pegar um avião!! (dá pra fazer de ônibus também, se você tiver tempo – são 23 horas de road). Então é basicamente assim para quem vai sair de São Luis: SLZ – SP (AQUELA espera) – Santiago – Calama – San Pedro de Atacama (deu cansaço só de ler, né?). De São Luis até Calama dá pra fazer de avião.

Eu comprei a minha passagem para Calama lá mesmo no Aeroporto de Santiago assim que cheguei, mas dá pra comprar pela internet, no site brasileiro da LATAM ou na Sky airlines.

DICA AMIGA: Existem preços diferentes para o mercado local e internacional. A gente não consegue comprar nos sites locais com cartão internacional (depois pesquisem a passagem para Calama no site chileno da LATAM e no brasileiro.. fica infinitamente menor. Para fazer isso basta trocar o nome do país no inicio da pagina), ou seja, pelo site da LATAM chilena você não consegue comprar. Resta a Sky airlines, que, segundo eu li em algum blog por ai, apesar de também não aceitar cartão brasileiro, aceita emitir o bilhete se for informado o número do cartão de crédito por email (reservas@skyairline.cl), através de uma autorização que eles enviam, ou por telefone, e ai você consegue comprar com as tarifas amigas chilenas. Não testei.

Como já estava em cima da viagem não ia fazer tanta diferença foi bem #partiuesejaoqueDeusquiser. Comprei lá e deu tudo certo, não me lembro exatamente, mas acho que saiu algo em torno de R$ 600,00 os dois (se não desse certo, meu plano B seria ficar lá em Santiago mesmo).

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(Chegando em Calama)

Chegado o dia, embarcamos para Calama. Meu nível de ansiedade nas alturas!! O vôo tem duração de 2 horas.

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Aeroporto de Calama

Ao chegar em Calama, no aeroporto mesmo, você deve contratar um transfer para San Pedro de Atacama, que é o ponto de partida para os passeios e onde você vai se hospedar. Quando contratar o transfer, contrate logo ida e volta, saiu 22 mil pesos cada um (parece que tem um cartel hahaha todos cobram o mesmo preço). Informe o horário do seu voo de volta e pronto! Menos uma preocupação. Não tenho nada a reclamar do serviço do transfer que escolhi: Transfer Andino.

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De Calama para San Pedro é pouco mais de 1 hora de estrada.  (Pausa drástica para quando você perceber que o aeroporto fica no meio do nada!)

Em resumo: Chegar no destino final, San Pedro, é bem cansativo! Bem mesmo.. fiquei bem mais cansada do que São Luis – Santiago. Isso porque, além de ser longe,  você já começa a sentir os primeiros indícios da altitude, do clima absurdamente seco, da temperatura (dependendo da hora que chegar  vai estar muito quente ou muito frio)!

SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA: O LUGAR

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Após o transfer você chega nesse lugarzinho simpático, simples e aconchegante que é San Pedro de Atacama.

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(around San Pedro)

Dá vontade de abraçar San Pedro, de tão pequeno e fofo! As ruas são repletas de turistas de todo canto do mundo,  com seus chapéus  e garrafas de água na mão! Parece um vilarejo todo trabalhado nas casinhas com paredes de barro e telhados de palha.

As ruas não tem asfalto.. então é poeira pra tudo quanto é lado! Mas apesar de ser bem simples, tem vários restaurantes legais (nesse ponto, a cidade é extremamente preparada para receber os turistas), tem farmácia, tem hospital, tem mercadinhos, tem hotéis MUITO simples e hotéis luxuosos.

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(Casa de cambio / ruas de San Pedro)

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(praça e restaurante)

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(Sorvete delicioso pra superar o calor / passeio pelas ruas de San Pedro)

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(amo esse contraste da cor de camelo e azul do céu)

Tem uma igrejinha que me chamou muito atenção, mas estava fechada nos dias que fui, então não entrei!

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O lugar é cheio de jovem, pessoas estilosas, simpáticas, simples e abertas a novas culturas, acredito que pela mistura visível de pessoas querendo curtir e ter experiências legais no mesmo lugar!

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(Pracinha de San Pedro)

DICA AMIGA: ÁGUA! Muita água! 2 litros de água não durava uma manhã inteira! A água custa 11 mil pesos chilenos, prepare-se para esse gasto, porque é extremamente necessário!

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ESCOLHENDO A AGÊNCIA PARA FAZER OS PASSEIOS:

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No nosso primeiro dia em San Pedro, optamos por procurar uma empresa para fechar todos os passeios ao invés de fazer um passeio que durava a metade do dia (a maioria dura o dia todo). São MUITAS agências! Tipo, MUITAS! Tem as mais famosinhas (que são absurdamente mais caras) e os que são boas, com um preço razoável!

NOSSA ESCOLHA: FLAMINGO TRAVEL AGENCY

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De alguma forma o francês Tony conquistou nossa confiança e fechamos um pacote com 4 passeios (VALLE DE LA LUNA + GEYSERS DEL TATIO +SALAR DE TARA + PIEDRAS ROJAS) por 98.000 pesos total para cada um, fora as entradas dos lugares que seria necessário.

Aqui é pesquisar mesmo, gente. Tem agência para todo gosto, tem outros passeios, são mais ou menos 10 opções de passeios que você pode escolher a depender da quantidades de dias que vai ficar e do que você realmente quer ver. Sugiro uma pesquisa prévia.

DICA AMIGA: NÃO FECHEM OS PASSEIOS COM NENHUMA AGÊNCIA NO BRASIL. Deixem para pesquisar as agências e preços lá em San Pedro mesmo (eu fui no escuro, sem saber o que esperar at all.. apenas sabendo que seria bem caro!). Lá vocês conseguem desconto em todos os passeios se fechar tudo com uma só empresa, ENTÃO NADA DE SE PRECIPITAR!

 

ESCOLHENDO O LOCAL PARA SE HOSPEDAR:

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DICA AMIGA: Aposte em uma boa hospedagem! Procurem sempre algo pelas ruas principais: Toconao, Caracoles.. vejam sempre no mapa a distância para o centro. Não vi nenhum taxi, tudo é basicamente feito andando e a noite quase não tem iluminação pública nas partes mais afastadas do centro, então nada de procurar o lugar mais barato de todos, porque com certeza vai ser distante do centro (pesquisei muito na época)!

NOSSA ESCOLHA: HOTEL TUYASTO

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Nada a reclamar assim de cara, é um hotel bem simples, como manda o figurino. O banheiro era fora do quarto, o que é um pouco ruim caso precise no meio da noite, ou de manhã cedo, momentos em que vai estar congelando lá fora!  Tem cozinha para você fazer sua comidinha (fazíamos muito café e algumas vezes miojo) e tem café incluso. Era o mais carinho da minha lista de hotel e existem melhores pelo mesmo preço que paguei (104.768 pesos chilenos) mas era o feriado da semana santa, então a cidade tava lotada! Fiquei feliz de pelo menos ser perto do centro!

OBS: Na rua que subia para o nosso hotel, dava pra ver o vulcão Licancabur <3 Nomeamos ele como nosso vulcão hahahah #abusados e a noite, como era época de lua cheia a gente podia ver isso:

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(Lua no céu de San Pedro / Vulcão no horizonte)

ESCOLHENDO RESTAURANTES EM SAN PEDRO

Eu amei a comida de lá, mas não sou difícil para gostar de comida!

Na primeira vez que andamos atrás de comida, ficamos bem em dúvida porque queria economizar, por motivos de que ainda íamos fechar os passeios e eu estava muito preocupada com os valores.. Sei que nessa de dúvida, anda pra lá, anda pra cá, pesquisa sobre na internet, um brasileiro reconheceu outro em um momento de sufoco e acabaram dando uma dica de ouro: Las delicias de Carmen!

RESTAURANTE PREFERIDO: LAS DELICIAS DE CARMEN

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Apenas amor!

Comemos lá umas 3 vezes, pois era gostoso e barato (nossa conta dava algo em torno de 12/13 pesos chilenos, duas pessoas). Se forem lá, não deixem de provar esse pãozinho e o molho que servem na entrada, eu não tenho palavras para descrever #saudades.

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(ensalada chilena/ molho e pãozinho da entrada)

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(prato principal, dividiamos/sopa)

Outro restaurante que comemos e gostamos muito (e que é super bem servido) é o La pica del índio. Para terem uma ideia, nesse dia pedi macarronada individual e Lucas pediu hambúrguer.. só comemos o hambúrguer, porque não havia espaço, verifiquem o tamanho:

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OS PASSEIOS ESCOLHIDOS

Vou tentar ser breve nos passeios, porque senão vai ficar muito grande o post e além do mais, as fotos falam por si só! Mas vamos lá deixar vocês com vontade!

DICA AMIGA: Pesquisem, pesquisem e pesquisem ANTES! É bom ter uma ideia dos passeios que tem interesse! Viagem é sempre corrido, é bom otimizar!

1) GEYSER DEL TATIO  

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Começamos o dia com o passeio dos Geysers que eu estava MORRENDO DE VONTADE de fazer. Era um dos que não ia deixar MESMO de fazer, pois esse é o terceiro maior Geyser do mundo! Imaginem só que #eufui #eutava!!

Li muito e indicaram deixar esse por último, porque é legal o corpo ir se acostumando com a altitude porque a altitude dele é pesada para quem não está acostumado, mas desobedientes que somos (e por motivos de viabilidade da agência) começamos logo com ele! Rs

O passeio é MUITO cedo, tipo saindo 04:30 da manhã! (Imaginem o frio!!!!) por isso, antes de começar, umas 07h, tomamos um café (BEM QUENTE TIPO FERVENDO) fornecido pela agência (detalhe: eles montam uma mesinha na parte de fora do carro que leva até o Geyser, achei isso muito legal!) e após a barriguinha cheia, começamos!

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(Chegando nos Geysers / pensando em ficar em cima do vapor pra se esquentar)

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( Nosso guia explicando)

Houve quem repensou real a viagem nesse momento:

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(Sendo feliz às 06:00 da manhã com temperatura negativa #ohwait #sqn)

Nessa parte, o passeio consiste em andar pelos geysers, admirar e ouvir as explicações do guia sobre o lugar! Porque é impressionante mesmo! Deem, atenção a explicação!

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Eu simplesmente AMEI!! Achei sensacional aquele vapor saindo de buracos no chão, sabe? Como a natureza é encantadora!!!

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(vibes Geysers)

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(solzinho saindo)

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(devido a altitude, a gente anda e dá uma paradinha para não ficar ofegante)

No decorrer do passeio, a temperatura que inicialmente era negativa, começa a subir! Depois de ver os geysers,  podemos tomar banho em uma piscina natural quentinha. PONTO ALTO DO PASSEIO, juro.  Mas, por outro lado, é uma mão de obra, porque você está com muita roupas por baixo, mas VALE A PENA DAR UM MERGULHO NA PISCINA natural, quentinha, PROMETO! <3 <3 <3 Sair de lá é a mesma novela! se secar e vestir tudo de novo. Mas não esqueçam de viver tudo que o lugar oferece. Não tirei foto porque foi um vuco vuco!

Após isso, entramos no carro de novo, e após uns 30/40 minutos, chegamos em um lugar que vendia churrasco de Lhama em um povoadozinho super humilde!

TRABALHAMOS COM CHURRASCO DE LHAMA SIM! e digo mais, é uma delicia!

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O lugar também é de tirar o fôlego de tão lindo. Não sabia lidar com aquele contraste de cores, muito melhor do que eu alguma vez imaginei!

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Comi o churrasquinho e depois fui dar uma caminhada pelo lugar, e acabei encontrando umas lhamas no caminho.. fiquei um pouco arrependida de ter comido o churras, porque elas são tão fofinhas.. mas tinha que provar, né?

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(charmosas desfilando)

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Elas são serumaninhos tão fofinhos!!!! Tinha uns filhotes, overdose de fofura! Uma delas chegou bem perto de mim <3 <3 Apenas cliquem nas fotos para ampliar!

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(oi miga)

O passeio é imperdível. POR FAVOR NÃO DEIXEM DE FAZER!

2)  VALLE DE LA LUNA/VALLE DE LA MUERTE/DUNAS MAYOR

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Quem me segue no instagram já deve estar cansado de olhar minhas fotos nesse lugar! hahaha Não tenho culpa, eu não sei lidar com o tanto de foto linda não!  Quando bate a saudade, fico olhando e lembrando!

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(três maria / empilhando pedras para dar sorte)

A parte chata desse passeio é o vento e a quantidade de areia envolvida! Comi areia várias vezes e entrou no meu olho também (ai minha lente!)  e na câmera

na hora das dunas.. então quando perceberem que está ventando demais, recolham as câmeras!

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(por do sol nas Dunas Mayor – destino final)

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(vale a pena a caminhada)

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O lugar é absurdo! eu ainda hoje penso em como descrever o lugar. É um daqueles que não tem foto, não tem palavra, não tem nada que faça jus à beleza do lugar!! O passeio dura apenas uma tarde, é perto de San Pedro, dá pra ir de bicicleta se quiser.

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O passeio é também cansativo, se anda bastante, muito mesmo!!!  Mas você esquece de qualquer cansaço quando chega nos lugares!

Tem uma parte do passeio que você anda no sal.. porque ai antes era o mar! provei e tudo! haha ainda tem pedras e pedras de sal por lá.  Vamos de fotos para vocês entenderem:

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3)  BIKE TOUR: PUKARA DE QUITOR + GARGANTA DEL DIABLO

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Nesse dia aconteceu algo inesperado: Tive uma cólica infernal imprevista e eu não consegui forças para ir no passeio das Piedras Rojas (Sim, foi triste. Sim, eu chorei). A farmácia só abria as 09:00h e o passeio começa às 07:00h. Enfim, foi como foi!

Para não perder o dia, decidimos sair de bicicleta com um mapinha na mão pelos arredores de San Pedro. Alugamos uma bike das 13horas até as 21 horas, e, pasmem, andamos até 21h em ponto!

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Gente, como eu me diverti! Sério. Malhei muito a batata nesse dia! Foi muito superação, porque apesar de boa parte do caminho ser plano, o sol tava doendo muuuito na pele, garganta pedindo água, tivemos que cruzar um mini rio, tirar bota, se equilibrar em pedras, atravessar a bicicleta.. e as distâncias eram maiores do que a gente pensava!!

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E o silêncio?! Parecia que só existia a gente naquele lugar!! Algumas horas me vi sozinha, porque como achávamos que já tínhamos pedalado muito e chegado em lugar nenhum, meu namo atleta das bikes pegava um pique para ver se tinha algo mais na frente e voltava.. sensação de liberdade 100%!

Fotos para vocês sentirem o gosto dessa aventura!

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(obs. fiquei com a marca da blusa)

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(pukara de quitor)

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(Garganta del diablo)

Lição do dia: Deixar um dia livre para fazer seu PRÓPRIO ROTEIRO É VIDA! Sem guia, sem grandes explicações, apenas indo por si só! O dia tinha tudo para ser só tristeza e irritação, mas acabou sendo uma das melhores memórias da viagem!

4)  SALAR DE TARA

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Nosso último passeio no Atacama, e, devo dizer, o que eu mais gostei! Que lugar é esse, gente? Ficava maravilhada a cada dia que passava!

O passeio fica a cerca de 140 quilômetros de San Pedro, é o passeio mais longe e tem uma altitude de 4.400 metros (!!!!). Dura o dia inteiro, começa bem cedo e, é importante dizer, NÃO EXISTE BANHEIRO! Ou seja, quem tiver vontade, vai ter que ser ~into the wild~.

Boa parte do caminho é feito por trilhas, com chão de areia mesmo, sem marcas determinando o caminho! (importante um guia experiente, não inventem de se aventurarem sozinhos!).

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(quase nada frio)

No caminho, fazemos algumas paradas para  admirarmos o local!

A primeira parada foi no meio do nada! O cenário maravilhoso, ainda estava beeeeem frio, mas ainda assim, conseguimos curtir bastante o lugar!

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A próxima parada foi no alto de um penhasco, o silêncio e a imensidão são inexplicáveis! O paredão de rochas na paisagem é de uma beleza absurda. A sensação que dá é de agradecer, de estar em um lugar como aquele, você consegue sentir a energia e o poder da natureza e a sua pequenez frente a ela! Só estando lá para sentir..

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Em algum momento eu desisti de tentar mostrar a magnitude do lugar por fotos, porque elas não são fieis. É ainda melhor! Confiem em mim!

Após isso, chegamos no Salar de Tara propriamente dito, que fica do lado oposto ao paredão! Depois de andarmos pelo lugar, a agência montou uma mesinha ali mesmo para almoçarmos!

O cardápio foi maravilhoso! MUITA SAUDADE dessa guacamole, desse pãozinho, desse ~pollo~. Ah, engraçado, comentei que no Brasil nós comíamos abacate com açúcar, leite e todo mundo ficou: OI???

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Depois paramos em algum lugar da Reserva, onde pudemos caminhar e admirar as paisagens. O salar de Tara fica dentro de uma reserva chamada Reserva Nacional los Flamencos. O destaque é para as formações rochosas MARAVIDEUSAS que existem ali, formadas por erupções vulcânicas, simplesmente no meio do NADA. Fiquei me perguntando como tomaram essa forma.

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Nesse ponto da viagem meu namorado já estava muito mal. Ele ficou realmente ruim por conta da altitude, desde a segunda parada.. cabeça explodindo, enjôo. Também me senti esquisita nessa hora, tanto que precisei me deitar no chão e ficar ali parada em silêncio para me recuperar. Não tiramos tanta foto, porque estava difícil caminhar, só restou admirar o Monge de la Pacana.

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(monge de la pacana)

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A ultima parada foi perto do vulcão Licancabur! Paramos no acostamento para tirar foto com ele ao fundo! Aqui não teve dor de cabeça que me parou. Fiquei hipnotizada pelo lugar! Não sei nem achar palavras, apenas fotos:

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Final perfeito para uma viagem épica!

5) TOUR ASTRONÔMICO

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Esse passeio fizemos por acaso, não estava nos planos, como sobrou um dinheiro, decidimos fazer esse também!

Para quem não sabe, o Deserto do Atacama tem um dos melhores céus para ver as estrelas, estudá-las e admirá-las, pela sua baixa umidade! Quando estávamos lá, a lua estava cheia, o que dificultou um pouco para vermos as estrelas, inclusive, eles disponibilizaram esse passeio somente no último dia, justamente por isso! mas vimos algo tão lindo quanto: a lua!

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(La luna)

O passeio sai às 22:00 e dura até 01 da manhã. É no meio do nada, você chega lá em uma van numa estrada escura, apenas confiando no guia  (e com o coração na mão hahahaha) e encontra uma mesinha com chá, biscoito, pão e vários telescópios!  Demais! As explicações do guia também são interessantes, eles falam em espanhol e em inglês.

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Nunca tinha vivido uma experiência dessa! Foi maravilhoso ver a lua, ver saturno  (!!!!!) e as constelações (vimos leão, gêmeos e escorpião! Muito nítido a olho nu!). Não tirei boas fotos por causa da iluminação, não tem ponto nenhum de luz! Só as lembranças  ficaram <3

QUANTAS LEMBRANÇAS!

Vou terminar o post com duas curiosidades: eu não engordei 1kg nessa viagem /Eu odeio tomar remédio, odeio e evito! Mas, nessa viagem, antes de dormir eu tomava remédio para a garganta, remédio pra gripe e dorflex!

É muita coisa para pouco espaço! Mas estou sempre aí para tirar as dúvidas de quem quiser curtir essa aventura! Indico a viagem pra quem topa qualquer parada, porque a altitude maltrata um pouco, as comidas são BEM diferentes.. você não vai ter um Mc Donalds na esquina.. e até no burguer king tem abacate hahaha.

Espero que tenham curtido as fotos e o post!

Volto em breve,

Beijos,

1

Jéss aventureira.

431 thoughts on “Como ser feliz por 5 dias no Deserto do Atacama

  1. Fotos maravilhosas! Confesso que nunca havia pensado em ir no Deserto do Atacama, mas despertou a curiosidade! Maravilhoso o post!

    1. Despertei a vontade depois de ver umas campanhas de marcas fotografadas lá! Me descobri uma aventureira haha porque é meio tenso, a altitude maltrata demais somado ao clima aburdamente seco.. Mas vale muito a pena! Eu adorei demais! Inclusive vi pais com crianças lá.. já pode entrar na lista de viagens com a família linda!! Beijoca dedessa <3

  2. Amei o texto, Jess! É uma narrativa tão fiel, que faz você se sentir lá!
    Uma verdadeira aventura, não tinha noção!
    Fotos perfeitas, paisagens incríveis, lhamas fofas, cores e mais cores!
    Mais posts assim, please!

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